Urupukapuka Island, Bay of Islands

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By Richard Moore

Urupukapuka Island is the largest off-shore land mass in the Bay of Islands and is a wonderful spot to take a break from boating around on the water.

It is one of the only islands in the area where you can camp and there is a restaurant and shower/toilet facilities.

Urupukapuka Island is 208 hectares, or 520 acres, and the main landing point is a wharf in the quiet and lovely Otehei Bay.

Once off the boat you can head off for a swim, food and drink, a relax, or take half an hour or so and head out on the Nautilus Subsea Adventure to see fish feeding on a man-made reef.

The Nautilus is a specially designed vessel that you clamber down into for an underwater view of the surrounds. There are plenty of seats and windows and it is in no-way a sealed-in submarine that will send shock waves through claustrophobics.

It is a very gentle journey out to the reef and the Nautilus only heads out when viewing is reasonably good.

The crew states this is not a journey to the the Great Barrier Reef - the fish are not tropical coloured beauties in a forest of amazing hues - but "you'll see the many varieties of fish and other marine life that inhabit the underwater world of the Bay of Islands. Commonly seen species include eagle rays, snapper, trevally, kingfish, spotty and sea urchins".

And you do. I must say watching all those big, fat snapper swimming around having a feed made me think of donning a mask and fins and popping out to do a bit of spearfishing for supper.

There are heaps of fish - courtesy of well-timed sploshes with a feeding bucket - and it is quite a sight. The kids will love being so close to the creatures.

Actually while I'm firing off a few spear shafts at the fishies I should take a cloth out and wipe down the Nautilus' windows on the outside. They were very spotty and had sea growth waving around their edges.

Back on the island it's time for some refreshments with coffee being the top of the list for some thirsty city folk.

Unfortunately all that's on offer is sachets of instant coffee at a gentle $2.50. At least in the city you can almost get a latte for that.

Now I don't mind forking out $5 for a half wrap of meat and salad, however, two things were a little on the nose at the restaurant.

The first was when a cafe staff member pursued a tourist to pay extra for some tomato sauce - seemingly it's a Kiwi cafe specialty of charging for the small containers. I thought this just a little rich given in most countries they are free and the price of the pie, pastry, whatever should have more than covered any cost to the owners.

The second gobsmacked not only me, but a couple we were chatting to in Paihia. They also were horrified at paying $3 for a paddlepop icecream.

Despite the above Urupukapuka's Otehei Bay is lovely and so enjoy your stay, but if you are after refreshments just be prepared to have your wallet hit more than you would expect.

Prices for the Nautilus Subsea Adventure are $10 for adults and $5 for children.

UPDATE: We have been reliably informed that new owners have taken over the restaurant and coffee machines are now in place, fridges are fully stocked, new crockery has been ordered and menu changes are well underway. The new owners are also reported to have great plans for developing and upgrading the property.